Oh, Canada!

The buttermilk lemon bars at the Vancouver Art Gallery's cafe were scrumptious! And that's not an easy thing to admit after nearly four days of some of the best cuisine the city had to offer. The museum itself is also a wonderful experience, though the current exhibition entitled "WACK!" was a bit over the top. Imagine two huge floors comprising several dozen smaller galleries filled with the work of many of North America's most radical feminist artists. Lots of vaginas, a few penises and quite a few works that defy description, though I was fascinated by the huge enclosure created from mattresses. Please remove your shoes before entering and NO jumping up and down!

Admittedly, that was how I spent the time after checking out of the Metropolitan Hotel and before my departure to the train station this afternoon. Instead the last few days have been about enjoying the sights of downtown Vancouver, especially the funky West End near English Bay, where indeed I did stroll out on the beach so I could let the surf wash over my hand. Next week, when I do the same in Halifax, my quest to traverse the continent from one end of Canada to the other will be symbolically complete.

Meantime, I made the most of what is a very walkable city. The days were not too frigid, so I spent most of my time on foot exploring the heart of downtown, Robson Street, with its dozens of shops and eateries. It runs east to west and intersects with all the famous Vancouver thoroughfares -- Georgia, Howe, Burrard, Cambie, Denham, to name a few. Naturally, I was also on the hunt for places to eat. I take after my mother in one way. I'm usually thinking about lunch while I am eating breakfast, always staying one step ahead so I can be certain I pick only the best spots to dine.

The hotel made it easy in one regard. The Metropolitan is home to one of Vancouver's best rooms, Diva at the Met. Two breakfasts, a lunch and my first night's dinner were enjoyed there. The Berkshire pork tenderloin was melt-in-your-mouth tender. Seafood was everywhere, but the "simply grilled" red snapper at Joe Forte's made for a hearty lunch. Of course, I skipped lunch on Thursday -- Canada's Thanksgiving is in October -- because the Cowboys game started at 12:30. Afterwards, though, I celebrated with bacon-wrapped scallops, a spinach salad and a big, fat filet at The Keg. I could go on about the desserts, but I'll spare you the temptation. Let's just say I will never forget the gooey meringue shell filled with a passionfruit mousse at Cin Cin. I told the waiter it was "sinful!"

Tonight, I am writing this snug in my bed northeast of Vancouver. A Bailey's on the rocks, my third, is proving the perfect sedative. Outside, it's gradually turning white. We are in for a snowy ride across British Columbia. Next stop, Jasper, AB, and the Canadian Rockies.